Have you any problem with wasabi? Easy fix

[Cru]

Flash... Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you You just made my weekend! I had brought my Wii to a friends for the weekend and it gave me nothing but troubles. I came home and checked the forums to see if anyone had posted anything new about the Wasabi Crisis and I came accross your page.

I just tried it and it frick'n works like a charm now! I had doubled up on my CLK and kept it as short as possible with my first install... followed your instructions and ran a long wire around the board and it works perfect everytime. I kept the wire from K to the reset so I have the option to turn the chip off if I want.

Thanks again

Someone get this man a cookie!!!!

[Moda]

hmm this is very interesting...

I have been working more on the capacitor fix to "Reset" the chip, and found that connecting K pad to onboard 3.3v cap is same as introducing external cap, so no need for more parts, i will upload diagram of this onboard no extra cap fix later...

For now.. If someone has a 50-100ohm Resistor and connect that in series with the CLK wire. this should have same effect as the long wire.

Give it a try and post results, i would try but i dont have any more red light d2c here right now..!

[didineedthis]

i can confirm the longer clock wire works like a charm, i had a red light last night ,just about to install the 47uf capacitor then i read flash78h post, boots everytime.

didineedthis

[ozmodchips]

I got 5 drives here still, will give it a go soon.

[Manzzon]

Tried it and can confirm that its working great on a drive that had this problem before.

Wasabi should try to fix it so no long wire is needed, else we will see trouble with some Wii-clip installs when its ready for the Wasabi.

[jmlacroix]

Originally Posted by Moda

hmm this is very interesting...

I have been working more on the capacitor fix to "Reset" the chip, and found that connecting K pad to onboard 3.3v cap is same as introducing external cap, so no need for more parts, i will upload diagram of this onboard no extra cap fix later...

For now.. If someone has a 50-100ohm Resistor and connect that in series with the CLK wire. this should have same effect as the long wire.

Give it a try and post results, i would try but i dont have any more red light d2c here right now..!

I read all of these posts, and I am under the impression that people thinks that the length of the wire isthe answer to the problem. I personnaly do not think that it is the length ofthe wire that is the real answer, but rather that the wire does not pass close to some of the components between the D2C and the other big chip (D1/D1A): there seems to be a component that interfere with the proper signal inthe CLK wire. So, it is not the length of the wire that helps, but rather the fact that it does not pass close to a critical components on the board.

This was obvious in the small video that was released wher you see that by moving the wire out of the bad region makes the LED go green.

A short wire, but shielded to GND would probably work as well, if not even better!

Or, putting the Wasabi to another place, where the CLK wire would not go between the D2C and the D1/D1A, would also work great.

[Moda]

Originally Posted by jmlacroix

I read all of these posts, and I am under the impression that people thinks that the length of the wire isthe answer to the problem. I personnaly do not think that it is the length ofthe wire that is the real answer, but rather that the wire does not pass close to some of the components between the D2C and the other big chip (D1/D1A): there seems to be a component that interfere with the proper signal inthe CLK wire. So, it is not the length of the wire that helps, but rather the fact that it does not pass close to a critical components on the board.

This was obvious in the small video that was released wher you see that by moving the wire out of the bad region makes the LED go green.

A short wire, but shielded to GND would probably work as well, if not even better!

Or, putting the Wasabi to another place, where the CLK wire would not go between the D2C and the D1/D1A, would also work great.

Yes i also think the length is not too important, but i said try the small resistor, because long wire will introduce only very very small impedence, also if the clock wire is magnetically sheilded then it should not make any difference at all.

Strange thing is some wii have red light, some dont, why?

I have run the clock direct over the crystal you are talking about, and no problem at all, so thats why i say test by introducing some impedence to the clock point.

Also, i think long wire may make the chip take only a fraction of second longer to "Sync" making red light disappear? i hope you understand what i mean... hence the cap fix works, because the chip reset AFTER the d2c controller is running and sync ok...

Jay

[jmlacroix]

Originally Posted by Moda

Yes i also think the length is not too important, but i said try the small resistor, because long wire will introduce only very very small impedence, also if the clock wire is magnetically sheilded then it should not make any difference at all.

Strange thing is some wii have red light, some dont, why?

I have run the clock direct over the crystal you are talking about, and no problem at all, so thats why i say test by introducing some impedence to the clock point.

Also, i think long wire may make the chip take only a fraction of second longer to "Sync" making red light disappear? i hope you understand what i mean... hence the cap fix works, because the chip reset AFTER the d2c controller is running and sync ok...

Jay

I agree with you: the length is not very important!

As far the longer wire introducing a small resistance, yes this is true, but the resistance would be very small: much lower than the 50-100 ohm. In fact, the wire would need to be very long (many feet) before we would be able to measure a significant resistance (although I would have to check this: how long a 30ag wire would need to be, before you get 10 ohm of resistance).

Why some Wii have the problem, while some do not??? I think that the interference produced by the crystal (or any components that creates the interference) varies from one Wii to the other: in some it is below what interfere with the Wasabi, while in others, it is above that threshold, and you have the interference. People have to realize, that there are some tolerance in electronic components (like a 470 ohm resistor that has 10% tolerance: the actual value is between 423 and 517 ohm). Therefore on some Wii, the current passing in a component may be slightly higer than in another, creating a bigger magnetic field that in turn creates more interference inthe CLK wire.

This may seem technical, but due to the tolerance in electronic components, no 2 Wiis are identical. As the intereference observed may be close to a treshold in the CLK wire, it may happen in some Wiis, but not in others.

What is important here, is to avoid this interference. When installing a Wasabi, it may be prudent to avoid passing the wire at the wrong place (between the D2C and the D1/D1A), or use a shielded wire. What would be interesting is to see if some people still have the problem with this solution (i.e.: not passing the wire at the wrong place).

[Frenik]

Thank you Flash! All good here.

My CLK wire still runs between D2C and D1 chip, but green light after every boot now, so I don't think its interference from between those two chips.

[ozmodchips]

Mmm
I can get it to green-light with the console open
But as soon as i close the console and turn it on...red light

sigh