[Dark Mod]

Originally Posted by sangerjet

Awesome tut...and I agree that spending a bit more for quality tools does pay off in the long run

Thank you very much for the comment

[jeffc313]

you seem quite knowledgeable, but please, explain to me for example, why a WES51 is better than a HAKKO 936-12 (ESD SAFE). I have used both, the hakko heats up quicker, is also ESD safe, the iron is also more comfortable to me. The only negative that I have come across is that I have to mail-order tips as no stores around me stock them. I mention these two, because I owned the weller and now own the hakko, the two are both often compared in terms of quality.

[Dark Mod]

Originally Posted by jeffc313

you seem quite knowledgeable, but please, explain to me for example, why a WES51 is better than a HAKKO 936-12 (ESD SAFE). I have used both, the hakko heats up quicker, is also ESD safe, the iron is also more comfortable to me. The only negative that I have come across is that I have to mail-order tips as no stores around me stock them.

You just answered your question bro.
Alot of technicians don't have the time of looking around for a replacement tip for the hakko iron.
Even though it heats up quick and fast (love that feature)
But for some reason the tips give up very quick.
I don't know why.

[jeffc313]

Originally Posted by Dark Mod

You just answered your question bro.
Alot of technicians don't have the time of looking around for a replacement tip for the hakko iron.
Even though it heats up quick and fast (love that feature)
But for some reason the tips give up very quick.
I don't know why.

eh, says nothing about the _QUALITY_ of the iron, but to each as own. I'll keep my Hakko, you keep your weller, both do about equal.

[Dark Mod]

Originally Posted by jeffc313

eh, says nothing about the _QUALITY_ of the iron, but to each as own. I'll keep my Hakko, you keep your weller, both do about equal.

Ok....everybody have their likes and dislikes.
I can't change nobody preferences

[HybridKid]

The Hakko 936 is a good iron. I used a clone (Madell QK936) of that for the past couple of years with no issues. The tips don't give up the ghost unless you get the cheap ones with crappy plating. I paid extra for a Hakko tip from HMCElectronics and its lasted the 2 years I've had it, even through heating the tar out of it for trying to deal with lead free on laptop boards.

On the other hand, the cheap tips I purchased from ebay, the iron eats those like nobody's business, especially at the higher heat ranges.

The 936 was one of Hakko's most popular hobby irons over the years, so much so that they are just getting around to replacing it with the FR-888 over in Japan.

I have a new station on order atm, and I'm highly tempted to purchase an OKI PS-800e station.

[Sambo]

Originally Posted by HybridKid

The Hakko 936 is a good iron. I used a clone (Madell QK936) of that for the past couple of years with no issues. The tips don't give up the ghost unless you get the cheap ones with crappy plating. I paid extra for a Hakko tip from HMCElectronics and its lasted the 2 years I've had it, even through heating the tar out of it for trying to deal with lead free on laptop boards.

This is the right answer. The Hakko stations have been so popular for so long that it's easy to find clone tips. The cloned tips aren't manufactured at the same quality as the OEM tips.

Originally Posted by Dark Mod

Are you insane
weller irons is highly recommended allover the world by top technicians and engineers.
Hakko is a third party company.
It only looks good but don't work good.

This is patently wrong. Hakko has been in business for more than 50 years and do their own R&D. Their high-end stations are more advanced than anything Weller has to offer, at any price.

If Hakko is a third party, who's the OEM? Know of many third parties (distros, resellers) that go to the trouble of getting registered with the UL, and why?

Weller, by the way, is just a division of CooperTools now. Has been for years.

As far as Hakko products not working, I used Hakko stations back in my High School electronics class that were roughly 30 years old at the time. Those same stations are probably still there and still working fine, despite the constant abuse by incompetent teenagers. I've heard similar stories of Weller stations. They're both quality products.

Disclaimer: I don't own a Weller or a Hakko (though I used to), nor do I have any interest in either company. I own and use a JBC AD2700, which, as far as I'm concerned, is the best soldering station of its type in the world. If I hadn't gotten the AD2700 brand new for the price of a WTCPT, I'd probably be using a Hakko right now.

Finally, it's better to use the proper flux and leave it on the board, rather than attempt to clean it off. Using alcohol (or any flux cleaner formulation) in a spot cleaning method will do more harm than good. Alcohol is good for removing the organic residue of rosin solder (alcohol is an organic solvent), but it won't do anything to carry away the ionic contaminants (activator salts). For that you need an aqueous cleaning step with lots and lots of fresh DI water, or lots of Freon.

Those activator salts (halides) are highly chemically active and while they are encapsulated in the leftover rosin, which will be inert if you choose the proper chemistry, the rosin will provide a buffer to keep the halides from doing anything nasty. If you attempt to clean the residue and your cleaning process sucks, the halides will left behind to consume base metals and accelerate failure.

Use a flux formulation like Kester's "245" liquid fluxes/cored solder wires and leave the residue alone.

Originally Posted by Dark Mod

Alot of technicians don't have the time of looking around for a replacement tip for the hakko iron.

No, but they have time to fiddle around on Internet forums.

At work, the guy down in materials and consumables takes care of requisitions and purchasing.

[dlumpy]

just wanted to add some imput as i been in electronics for years and like someone said the ratshack grounded puts some voltage at the tip is correct now much but we have tested it as for wii's it may not been an issue but I have seen chips go bad from using them

I my self do other chips called bga of different sizes and use a station with hotair and solder
I use the AOYUE 968 and have for 2 years now and not had to change tip yet but most my work is done with hot air

as for flux I have found on chips liquid flux works best for me and on chips i flux all the legs around the ones I am going to solder to also. I know it sounds backwards but the flux actually helps with solder not bridging

as for many irons listed in this thread alot are good just has alot to do with preference

sorry may went over my 2 cents

[Dark Mod]

Originally Posted by dlumpy

just wanted to add some imput as i been in electronics for years and like someone said the ratshack grounded puts some voltage at the tip is correct now much but we have tested it as for wii's it may not been an issue but I have seen chips go bad from using them

I my self do other chips called bga of different sizes and use a station with hotair and solder
I use the AOYUE 968 and have for 2 years now and not had to change tip yet but most my work is done with hot air

as for flux I have found on chips liquid flux works best for me and on chips i flux all the legs around the ones I am going to solder to also. I know it sounds backwards but the flux actually helps with solder not bridging

as for many irons listed in this thread alot are good just has alot to do with preference

sorry may went over my 2 cents

No...not really ...you have your choice and opinion.....I have my choice and opinion, i'm not going to war about it.
You use the same liquid flux I use too....it is just that liquid flux is really hard to get in my country so i have no choice but to use the paste version instead, but after I use it to clean my points i immediately clean the flux out of the point on the board. And just solder the wire to the point fast and efficient.

Also the AOYUE 968 you have is one of my favorite tools I used to have but I had no choice but to sell it because I needed some money to purchase more parts and minor tools.